me and my buddy Amadou |
The lineup of kids in their nice new clothes |
circumcision spiffies. |
yes, girls too. small ones. |
the first batch of children finishing up the circumcision ceremonies. |
eating in celebration of the circumcisions (the men eat outside, the women
go back behind the houses to eat in privacy) |
leaving the village and heading out to the prayer grounds |
mid-morning on Tobaski, the deep deep drums sound, and everyone (well,not
quite everyone: the men, the old women, and the children) gathers at the
village praying grounds. Too big of a gathering to be held at the mosque,
my village opts to pray under the giant silk cottonwood tree. |
finding our seats to pray |
a group of Islamic leaders, including the Imam from my village and from
the village across the street, lead the group in prayers. Islam nicely
circumvents the problem of whether to conduct the ceremony in Wolof or
Mandinka; everything is done in Arabic. |
praying |
The prayers are suspended for everyone to stand up and greet one another
- the men, sitting in front, mingle to shake hands and say "Balal
ma waxaka" (essentially, forgive me for my words and acts). The women
and children, sitting at the rear of the congregation, do the same among
themselves. |
the village elders leave the prayer grounds and go to the Imam's compound,
where they sacrifice the first of the rams. For the rest of the morning,
the air is thick with the sounds of the death cries of livestock. |
Malik (family planning agency volunteer, and tailor) and his daughter |
Mai Khan struts her new prayer clothes |
good times in Karantaba |
while the women cook... the men listen to music and play cards. |
2nd round of circumcision parties. Dawda and Ably- celebrating Ably's
completion of "circumcision school" |
Celebrating circumcision... in style! |
Celebrating circumcision... in style! |
Celebrating circumcision... in style! |
Celebrating circumcision... in style! |
Celebrating circumcision... in style! |
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This is Fatou Jallow and baby Aji. Yup, even Aji, the 6 month old girl in my compound, was circumcised.
I know. I cried when I found out. But you know, it's too complex of
asituation to change in a year, 2 years, 5 years, a decade. If I were
here another year, maybe I could *start* making inroads. For now, I
just try to listen and tell people what I know, without being judgemental.
"Yes, Wolofs in this area circumcise their daughters. Yes, it is
your tradition. What I have heard is that the practice can be very dangerous
for women, when they are going through childbirth. You have heard that
UNCIRCUMCISED women have more difficulties in labor? Hmm. I've heard
the opposite. You are right, there are many women here, and they give
birth all the time. Some of them have difficulties; many do not..."
And it goes on..
|
hangin with the girls from the chief's compound |
.
Hunta |
my boys hamming it up. |
kids out looking for treats |
in the evening, all the women in the village come by my compound, dressed
to the 9s. They sit around brewing attaya (sugary super strong green tea)
and lei (sweetened milk) over coal pots; chatting; showing off their new
clothes.
|
my sitemate Cheeta and I, dressed up for the holiday |
Cheeta and Yusupha
(my host brother) |
Yusupha and me |
the women from my compound
(plus a few extra) |
village women |
village women |
village women |
village women |
village women |
village women |
village women |
village women |

A little movie of my villagers |
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